At The Grey in Savannah, Mashama Bailey serves "gorgeous food that subtly threads together the story of the South," says John T. Edge, author of the new book Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South. Bailey and Johno Morisano opened the restaurant two years ago in an Art Deco building that once housed a Greyhound bus station and were immediately hailed for both the setting and the food.
The restaurant, Edge says, has two lunch counters that once would have been segregated, which adds a historical resonance to eating at The Grey. But Bailey's food commands the diner's full attention once it's on the table. In addition to lunch and dinner, one Sunday a month Bailey offers a special menu that's worth scheduling a visit to Georgia around. On August 20, for example, she's doing BBQ pork rinds, a low country boil and peaches and cream for dessert.